Curiosities of Cesky Budejovice and Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Budejovice is more commonly known as Cesky Budweis, and since 1795 it has been brewing beer. However, don’t confuse the local brew with the American Budweiser as an ongoing court case is dealing with the fight over the trademark. But it’s not the beer that I’ve stopped for. I’m more interested in some of the less well known curiosities to be found in the city.

I start my search in the main square which is apparently the 2^nd largest in the Czech Republic. It is certainly very square in shape and surrounded by beautiful buildings, the most spectacular being the city hall. Close to the Samson Fountain, in the centre of the cobbled square, I find my first curiosity – the erratic boulder. It is said to mark the site of the old gallows and locals believe that if you step over it after 10pm you will lose your way until morning.

Just around the corner is the smaller Piaristic Square, beside the Dominican monastery. It’s not easy to locate, but high up near the roof, next to a drainpipe, is a stone frog. The legend says that during the construction of the church, the walls that were built each day would collapse by the morning. No one understood why this was happening but one day they found a huge frog in the church foundations. Unable to drive the frog away by force, the locals resorted to prayers and the frog finally disappeared allowing the building work to be completed. The stone frog was placed on the church wall to remind people of their faith and it is believed that if the frog ever reaches the top of the wall and falls down, the church will also collapse.

Next to the monastery is the old armoury. Built in 1521, it has also served as a granary and a salt house from where it gets the name ‘Solnice’. There is an old story about three robbers who attempted to steal from the church. They were caught by a nun who cleverly locked them in the sacristy and sounded the bell to call for help. They were decapitated for their crime and the images of their faces were carved into the façade of the Salt House as a warning to others.

 

 

Cesky Krumlov is an easy day trip from Prague and so it’s not surprising to find lots of coach parties wandering around the UNESCO listed town and large castle complex. I arrive just in time for the English language tour of the castle interiors. Luckily it’s a small group but sadly the guide, whilst very knowledgeable, is completely devoid of any personality and her accent is so thick that it’s quite difficult to understand anything she says.

Fortunately the tourist office is able to provide me with some information about the history of the town and castle. Cesky Krumlov (which means ‘crooked meadow’) was established in 1250 by the Vitkovci dynasty who built the castle above the Vltava River and the town on the encircled land below. 50 years later the Rosenberg’s took over, expanding the castle fortifications and creating a coat of arms featuring the five-petalled rose, which is celebrated each year with a popular medieval festival. In order to associate themselves with the influential Orsini family (whose name comes from the Latin ors, meaning bear), The Rosenburgs included the bear in their coat of arms. Later, in 1707, records show the beginning of a tradition of keeping bears at the castle. Sadly the tradition continues in quite appalling conditions, though I cannot verify the bears’ condition as I never saw them.

After the Thirty Years War, Cesky Krumlov was given to the Austrian Eggenberg family who gave their name to the very refreshing beer which is still brewed in the town. Then, in 1719, the Schwarzenberk’s came along, expanding the castle further and decorating it in the renaissance style, also adding a beautiful baroque theatre.

 

I want to learn more about this ancient and complicated town so I join a free walking tour with local Jan as my guide. He’s wearing a bright red waterproof and carrying an equally bright red umbrella which makes him easy to spot in the main square. A lot of his tales seem to revolve around his drunken teenage antics but he does lead us to some great views and manages to shock us with the darker side of Cesky Krumlov’s history.

 

 

Ghosts play a big part in his stories. There’s the disgruntled innkeeper who was cursed to wander the main square and scare drunken students, the haunted music school where Jan’s mother works and the spirit of Markéta Pichlerová, mistress of Don Julius, mad bastard son of Emperor Rudolf II. One day he got so upset with her that he threw her out of the castle window. Amazingly, her fall was broken by the accumulation of rubbish beneath the window and she survived. However, she couldn’t escape the rage of her lover who subsequently stabbed her to death.

We end our walking tour on the Cloak Bridge which spans a deep cleft in the rock and provides a covered corridor between the castle and the baroque theatre. The views are fabulous but our mood is soured when Jan tells us never to talk when we pass under the bridge for fear of disturbing the spirits of those who have died there. Apparently the Cloak Bridge is a popular suicide spot.

 

 

 

I end my day by returning to the tavern where I’d had lunch for a glass of wine and some sweet dumplings. Na Louzi is a great place frequented by locals and providing inexpensive home cooked food. Strangely, the only curiosity in this place seems to be me!

 

The Hussite Rebellion

Located in the main square of Prague, beneath the tower of the old town hall, is a huge monument. I had no idea who the man in the monument was or why he was honoured in this way until I visited the town of Tabor, 90 kms south of the Czech capital.

 

 

In 1402, Jan Hus was appointed rector of Charles University in Prague. A Roman Catholic who was influenced by the teachings of Oxfordshire priest John Wycliffe, he began giving popular sermons that called for the reform of the Catholic Church. He was angered by the power and prosperity that they held and the selling of religious items to fund the papal wars. In 1411 he was excommunicated and fled south to preach to the peasants of southern Bohemia. However, the Catholic Church grew unhappy with his defiance and ordered him to Constance where he was burned at the stake on 6^th July 1415.

His followers continued their beliefs and the town of Tabor became a centre for their ideology. I learn more about the Hussites and their fight against the Catholic Church in the Hussite Museum, located in the old town hall in the centre of the fortified town. There are a lot of interesting displays and complex models of battles fought. There are also a series of cartoons to appeal to younger visitors and I am aided by an audioguide which translates all of the exhibition panels and is included in the entrance fee.

It’s hard to visit the museum or walk around the town without bumping into Jan Zizka, a Hussite and influential military captain who declared himself ‘the Warrior of God’ and led many successful attacks on the troops of Catholic King Sigismund of Bohemia in the early 15^th century. He is often depicted riding a horse with a patch over one eye where he lost his sight during a battle and for the last three years of his life he was actually blind. He may have lost his vision but he is well known for never having lost a battle.

The Hussites proved to be a formidable force and succeeded in defeating the Catholics in many battles resulting in a change to the laws giving them more religious freedom. During the 30 Years War, at the battle of White Mountain in 1620, the Czech and Hungarian allied armies retreated and catholic forces executed 27 protestant nobles, displaying their heads along the Charles Bridge in Prague. The resulting 1648 Peace of Westphalia meant that most Bohemian properties were given to catholic families from Austria, Spain, France and Italy and all forms of Protestantism were outlawed. Despite this, opposition to the Catholic Church continued and even today only 10% of Czechs are Roman Catholic.

 

 

Searching for Mucha

I’ve always been a fan of Art Deco, both architecture and art. One of my favourite artists is Alfons Mucha and, until I visited Prague, I had no idea how connected to the city he was. So I decided to discover more about him by seeking out the places where he left his mark on the city.

My first encounter is at St Vitus Cathedral in the castle complex. As I enter, my eye is drawn to one of the first stained-glass windows. I recognise the style instantly. Mucha was commissioned in 1931 to design a window for the cathedral. He was already a well-established artist and had become very famous in Prague following his exhibition of the Slav Epic in the Trade Fair building in 1928. The women depicted in the window resemble the many posters of Sarah Bernhardt that Mucha produced for her numerous stage plays between 1894 and 1898.

 

I next find his influence in the beautiful Obecni dum (Municipal Building) which he helped to design in 1911. Although I am unable to see the ornate halls, I can appreciate the dining areas and hallways which boast features representative of Mucha’s art.

In order to learn more about Alfons Mucha, I visit the museum located not far from Obecni dum. It’s a small exhibition of some of his theatre posters, sketches and a few paintings. I find the black and white photos of models posing in costume for his Slav Epic particularly interesting as I hadn’t realised that artists were using this technique a century ago.

 

 

 

Alfons Mucha was born in 1860 in Southern Moravia and started his artistic career painting scenery for a theatre. When the theatre burned down, he moved on to house painting where his talents were recognised by Count Karl Khuen, who sent him to study at the Munich Academy of Arts and later to the Academie Julian in Paris. Mucha also spent time on book illustration and designing jewellery for Fouchet. However, his real desire was to create an epic work which told the mythology and history of the Czechs and other Slavic people. He began work on it in 1910 and the 20 canvases, many of which are 8m x 6m, were finally displayed in Prague in 1928.

Mucha was greatly influenced by the Freemasons and connections to this can be seen in his work. In 1918 he established the first Czech Lodge and later became a Grand Master. Following the Independence of Czechoslovakia in 1918, he designed the new banknotes and also stamps, some of which are displayed in the museum.

Sadly, at the beginning of WWII, he was arrested by the Gestapo and taken for questioning. He never recovered from his ordeal and died 8 days later on the 14^th of July 1939, aged 78. I walk up to the Vysehrad fortress to see the cemetery where he was laid to rest. His name is displayed on a plaque on the Slavin Monument. He is in good company for Kafka is also buried there and not far away is the tomb of Czech composer Dvorak.

After paying my respects I decide to take a peek inside the St Peter and St Paul church which borders the cemetery. What I find inside is the most fitting tribute to Mucha. The colourful interior is decorated in his unique style with saints adorning the pillars, looking just like Mucha’s theatrical posters. Soft organ music is playing in the background and I feel very peaceful.

 

Prague on a Budget

Although people still think of Prague as being in Eastern Europe it has well and truly embraced the European Union. Well, except for not adopting the euro, as per the UK. Prices reflect this and it seems as though every Czech is trying to get the most out of visitors to the city. There are fee paying museums everywhere, extra charges are also imposed if you want to take any photos and even the churches have an entry fee. However, I managed to spend 3 days in the city for less than £100 and here are my tips for visiting Prague on a budget.

Accommodation: Even if you are not in a motorhome or carrying a tent, the campsites in Trojska are very good value. Basically, enterprising homeowners have set up camps in their large back gardens and built some wooden bungalows at the far end. It’s a safe, quiet location with easy access to the city centre (13mins by tram). There are half a dozen camps on the same road which leads to Trojska Chateau and the Zoo. One night will cost about 300k / £10.

Transport: There are many ways that you can see Prague. Organised tours on buses, boats, segways and even vintage cars. However, the cheapest option is on foot, but wear comfortable shoes as many of the streets are cobbled. In order to see as much as possible in one day, or to get into the centre from the suburbs, you might want to buy a transport ticket – 24k (less than £1) for a 30 min journey or 110k (£3) for the day. It can be used on buses, trams, the metro and even the funicular up to Petrin Hill.

Safety: All the guidebooks, and even the Foreign Office advice warn of scams and pickpockets in Prague. Personally, I never experienced or even noticed any such activity. However, be careful with your belongings when in busy areas such as Charles Bridge and especially tram 22 which covers the route from the city centre to the castle. Also check your change carefully when you pay for anything.

Food: Normally I would never recommend lunch at McDonalds, but in Prague that is possibly the best option if you are on a tight budget. Most of the restaurants offering traditional Czech fare will set you back 300k (£10) for a main course and that’s not including a beer. Equally expensive are the old-fashioned cafes, such as the Imperial, Europa or the Art Deco Café in the Municipal House where a coffee and cake could cost you the equivalent of 1 nights’ accommodation. If the weather is nice take a picnic up to Petrin Hill or buy some street food in one of the main squares.

Museums: The price of visiting Prague’s museums varies but there are some good offers to be had. For example, you can buy a half-price ticket for the Mucha Museum at the Kafka Museum and vice-versa. Unfortunately they are some distance apart and on opposite sides of the river. Some museums also have free days or may be free on public holidays. Note: many museums and churches are closed on Mondays.

The Castle: It is possible to visit the castle grounds for free, though you will still have to queue and pass through a security check to gain access. It is also possible to enter the St Vitus Cathedral without paying but you will only be allowed just inside the main doors. To see the beautiful side chapels and really appreciate the interior you will need a ticket. Ticket B (250k / £8) will provide you with access to all of the Cathedral, St George’s Basilica (inviting on the outside but rather plain within), the Old Royal Palace (featuring a huge, but empty, 15^th century hall accessible to horses via the wide, shallow steps of the Rider’s Staircase and a balcony offering wonderful views of the city, weather permitting), and Golden Lane (a narrow street of cute little  houses, half laid out as museum exhibits and half souvenir shops).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, the best feature of the castle does not even require access as the midday changing of the guard takes place in the first courtyard and can be viewed from Hradcanske Nam, the main square outside. Escorted by a brass band playing a special tune (a bit like the ‘Thunderbirds’ theme), the guards march in and out dressed in a uniform created by a costume designer for Hollywood films.

Charles Bridge: It’s completely free to wander over this pedestrian bridge spanning the River Vltava, best attempted in the morning before the crowds get too thick. Street musicians provide entertainment and artists offer to sketch your portrait. 30 sculptures line the bridge but be sure to stop at the statue of St John Nepomuk, who was hurled into the river in 1383 for refusing to divulge the confession of the Queen. A bronze cross marks the spot where he was thrown in and if you place your fingers on the five points of the cross and close your eyes, you can make a wish.

Old Town Square: The tower of the Town Hall features an intricate astronomical clock which provides free entertainment every hour to crowds of tourists who gather in the square below. Just before the bell strikes the hour, two windows open and the 12 apostles file past, while below death watches on and above a cock crows to mark the end of the show. It’s also possible to climb the tower for a fee (120k / £4) and look down upon the crowds while also admiring views across the city.