Return to Venice

Last year, one of the main reasons for my tour was Venice. I spent 3 days there for only €140 and explored most of the main sites in the city as well as the islands in the lagoon. This year I’m just passing through, but I want to spend a day trying to find some of the less visited sites and explore parts of Venice that tourists just don’t have time to see. I also manage to find a convenient free parking place just 10 mins bus ride from Piazza Roma, the main point of arrival in the city.

My plan is to stay north of the Grand Canal, exploring Cannaregio, Castello and Arsenale. However, first I have to battle my way along the Lista di Spagna, a busy artery from the station to Campo San Geremia. It’s here that I discover ‘Brek’, a self-service restaurant with cheap food and drinks and clean toilets. Finding toilets that you don’t have to pay for in Venice is hard and it’s usually less expensive to have a quick expresso and use one in a café or bar.

In 1493 there were 137 churches in Venice and on the islands, and today there are a similar number. I find it quite hard to pass by one without popping inside. Of course, some of the larger churches and those with well-known works of art now have a fee, but there are smaller ones which are just as beautiful and which also have works by famous artists. The Scalzi is right next to the train station and, although it was badly damaged by a bomb in 1915, it was beautifully restored and some of the works in the side chapels survived. Not far away, in San Felice, there is a delightful painting by Tintoretto of St Demetrius.

The word ‘ghetto’ comes from the Italian for foundry and there was one on this tiny island until 1390. In 1516, due to the influx of Jewish refugees into Venice, the senate decreed that they should be isolated to the island. 400 years before the Germans segregated Jews, the Venetians had already created a divide, although they respected the Jewish community for their culture and knowledge. I’m rather underwhelmed by the Jewish Ghetto. I’m not sure what I expected but it wasn’t armed guards and metal detectors. Around the campo there are several bronze reliefs by Arbit Blatas, a memorial to the 202 holocaust victims.

Ca’ d’Oro (Golden House) has overlooked the Grand Canal since 1434. Its golden decoration has long since disappeared and its previous owners (a procurator of San Marco, a ballerina and a baron) have too. The Palace is now filled with art which you have to pay €8.50 to see.

 

 

 

However, next to it is the Palazzo Sagredo, a neglected building just 10 years ago but now a 4* hotel. I’m not dressed like a 4* client so I politely ask the receptionist if it is okay to see the interior and he kindly points to the grand staircase which is decorated with the ‘Fall of the Giants’ by Longhi. At the top there is a long wide hall with painted panels and a wonderful view of the Grand Canal. I have to tiptoe through the two breakfast rooms to reach the lavish ballroom, all the time wondering just how much it would cost to stay here.

A short walk away is the Rialto Bridge, still covered in scaffolding one year on. Next to it is the Fondacho dei Tedeschi, once a huge foreign traders market covered in frescos by Giorgione and Titian until it burned down in 1508. It became a post office in 1808 and served the community for almost a century before being abandoned for more modern facilities. It has recently been acquired by the Benetton family who have transformed it into a luxury shopping outlet on a par with Harrods in London, though a lot more chic. Having only opened in October 2016, few people have discovered the rooftop terrace offering amazing views over the city. The ‘red carpet’ escalators are pretty cool and the toilets are rather plush too!

I cross the Rio dei Mendicanti into Castello and visit the hospital. I’m not sick, I just want to see the interior of the building designed by Longhena. It’s amazing that a fully functioning hospital still exists inside the 17^th century structure. Next to it is the huge gothic church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, or San Zanipolo as it is known locally, where 25 Doges lie in ornate tombs. In the centre of the square is a large equestrian statue of Colleoni, Commander in Chief of the Venetian forces in 1454.

By the time I reach Arsenale my stomach is loudly demanding to be fed. The waterfront restaurants with their overeager waiters are a bit pricey but there are plenty of others along the wide Via Guiseppe Garibaldi. After a leisurely lunch I continue on to the island of San Pietro which is deserted apart from a few cats. The church here served as the main cathedral of Venice between the 11^th century and 1807 when Napoleon decided to change things. The adjacent white stone bell tower looks as if it’s close to falling onto the church and the plaster ceilings of the cloister are crumbling and collapsing. I wonder what they are spending the entrance fees on.

I follow the tall, thick, brick walls of the Arsenale until I reach the Great Gateway guarded by an assortment of lions stolen from various sites in Greece. At one time the Arsenale shipyards employed 16,000 men but now it’s rather quiet and hosts art and architecture exhibits for the Biennale.

I decide to end my day in Venice by revisiting St Mark’s Basilica. The last time I was there I only had a fleeting glimpse of the interior as I was swept along with the crowds. This time I climb the steep stone steps up to the Museum and the large balcony overlooking the main square. It’s a fantastic view and, as it is late in the day, there are only a few other people and the four large replica bronze horses. The originals are just inside, along with some mosaic fragments and a bird’s eye view of the glittering, golden ceiling mosaics and intricate floor designs down below.

I also pay a visit to the Treasury which consists of only two small rooms containing ancient gold, silver and glass religious objects and saintly relics. Sadly, I’ve left it too late to enter the sanctuary and see the burial place of St Mark and the Pala d’Oro, a 10ft by 4ft golden panel, decorated with precious stones and pearls. The original screen was created in 976 but over the next 400 years it was enlarged and embellished with plundered loot to become the ‘Jewel in the Crown’ of Venice. Like an indication of last orders in a pub, the lights flicker and go out giving the basilica a rather spooky feel. Time gentlemen, please!

It may be time to leave Venice but somehow I know I’ll be back. There’s still so much left unexplored and still so much more to discover.

 

Prague on a Budget

Although people still think of Prague as being in Eastern Europe it has well and truly embraced the European Union. Well, except for not adopting the euro, as per the UK. Prices reflect this and it seems as though every Czech is trying to get the most out of visitors to the city. There are fee paying museums everywhere, extra charges are also imposed if you want to take any photos and even the churches have an entry fee. However, I managed to spend 3 days in the city for less than £100 and here are my tips for visiting Prague on a budget.

Accommodation: Even if you are not in a motorhome or carrying a tent, the campsites in Trojska are very good value. Basically, enterprising homeowners have set up camps in their large back gardens and built some wooden bungalows at the far end. It’s a safe, quiet location with easy access to the city centre (13mins by tram). There are half a dozen camps on the same road which leads to Trojska Chateau and the Zoo. One night will cost about 300k / £10.

Transport: There are many ways that you can see Prague. Organised tours on buses, boats, segways and even vintage cars. However, the cheapest option is on foot, but wear comfortable shoes as many of the streets are cobbled. In order to see as much as possible in one day, or to get into the centre from the suburbs, you might want to buy a transport ticket – 24k (less than £1) for a 30 min journey or 110k (£3) for the day. It can be used on buses, trams, the metro and even the funicular up to Petrin Hill.

Safety: All the guidebooks, and even the Foreign Office advice warn of scams and pickpockets in Prague. Personally, I never experienced or even noticed any such activity. However, be careful with your belongings when in busy areas such as Charles Bridge and especially tram 22 which covers the route from the city centre to the castle. Also check your change carefully when you pay for anything.

Food: Normally I would never recommend lunch at McDonalds, but in Prague that is possibly the best option if you are on a tight budget. Most of the restaurants offering traditional Czech fare will set you back 300k (£10) for a main course and that’s not including a beer. Equally expensive are the old-fashioned cafes, such as the Imperial, Europa or the Art Deco Café in the Municipal House where a coffee and cake could cost you the equivalent of 1 nights’ accommodation. If the weather is nice take a picnic up to Petrin Hill or buy some street food in one of the main squares.

Museums: The price of visiting Prague’s museums varies but there are some good offers to be had. For example, you can buy a half-price ticket for the Mucha Museum at the Kafka Museum and vice-versa. Unfortunately they are some distance apart and on opposite sides of the river. Some museums also have free days or may be free on public holidays. Note: many museums and churches are closed on Mondays.

The Castle: It is possible to visit the castle grounds for free, though you will still have to queue and pass through a security check to gain access. It is also possible to enter the St Vitus Cathedral without paying but you will only be allowed just inside the main doors. To see the beautiful side chapels and really appreciate the interior you will need a ticket. Ticket B (250k / £8) will provide you with access to all of the Cathedral, St George’s Basilica (inviting on the outside but rather plain within), the Old Royal Palace (featuring a huge, but empty, 15^th century hall accessible to horses via the wide, shallow steps of the Rider’s Staircase and a balcony offering wonderful views of the city, weather permitting), and Golden Lane (a narrow street of cute little  houses, half laid out as museum exhibits and half souvenir shops).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, the best feature of the castle does not even require access as the midday changing of the guard takes place in the first courtyard and can be viewed from Hradcanske Nam, the main square outside. Escorted by a brass band playing a special tune (a bit like the ‘Thunderbirds’ theme), the guards march in and out dressed in a uniform created by a costume designer for Hollywood films.

Charles Bridge: It’s completely free to wander over this pedestrian bridge spanning the River Vltava, best attempted in the morning before the crowds get too thick. Street musicians provide entertainment and artists offer to sketch your portrait. 30 sculptures line the bridge but be sure to stop at the statue of St John Nepomuk, who was hurled into the river in 1383 for refusing to divulge the confession of the Queen. A bronze cross marks the spot where he was thrown in and if you place your fingers on the five points of the cross and close your eyes, you can make a wish.

Old Town Square: The tower of the Town Hall features an intricate astronomical clock which provides free entertainment every hour to crowds of tourists who gather in the square below. Just before the bell strikes the hour, two windows open and the 12 apostles file past, while below death watches on and above a cock crows to mark the end of the show. It’s also possible to climb the tower for a fee (120k / £4) and look down upon the crowds while also admiring views across the city.

 

The Effects of the EU Referendum

I admit that I was totally shocked by the result of the EU referendum back in June. I really didn’t think that leaving the EU was a possibility. While my colleagues were sobbing in their morning cuppa, I was trying to assess exactly what the impact would be for my future European Tour.

I am old enough to remember what it was like before we had freedom of movement around Europe, when there were still border posts between neighbouring countries with bureaucratic immigration and customs officials who had nothing better to do than make your life a misery, and when my parents would smuggle crates of cheap beer beneath sleeping children on the back seat. Nowadays the only time I have to show my passport is before and after the ferry crossing between England and France and I can bring back as much wine as my motorhome can carry while the officials spend their time looking for illegal immigrants in HGVs. Travellers can now breeze through the Pyrenees between France and Spain where the only sign of the previous border is a small abandoned kiosk in the middle of the road and taking a ferry between the islands of Sardinia (Italy) and Corsica (France) is as easy as going to the Isle of Wight.

Reports say that it will take some time to extricate ourselves from Europe and probably a lot of money, so I’m not worried about my current tour. Even in the future, I doubt that border formalities will change much from their current state. My bigger concern is that the duty free allowance will be severely reduced, in order that the British Government can claw back some of the cost of Brexit through import taxes.

The major impact for this year is the poor exchange rate between the pound and the euro and I know that my trip will be an expensive one. However, I plan to find as many free places to spend the night as possible and find some good cheap local food along the way.

The most interesting aspect of my journey will be to see the impact of the refugees, escaping from the war in Syria and other unstable nations. We are all too aware of the numbers which have made it to the Greek Islands, such as Lesbos, but I wonder how many I will encounter in mainland Greece or in Sicily. We will see.

Barcelona on a Budget

Accommodation: There are many campsites and several secure parking areas for motorhomes in the Barcelona area but they are very expensive. A much cheaper option is to park in the free Aire at Colonia Guell. You could also visit Gaudi’s Crypt, the incomplete church which Gaudi designed for the village. (€9 including audio guide tour of the church and village).

Transport: Rather than catch the train from the closest station of Colonia Guell, walk 10 minutes down the road to Moli Nou which is within zone 1. A day ticket for the train and Barcelona metro system costs €7.60.

Sights: A lot of the main sights in the city are very expensive but it is possible to spend a day in the city without spending a lot of money whilst still seeing a lot of interest.

In the old town you can visit the Cathedral and its cloister for free. The interior is very impressive and the geese can be very entertaining.

The remains of the Roman Temple of Augustus are well hidden by the surrounding apartment blocks but, if the door is open, they are worth a glance.

The courtyards of the Casa L’Ardiaca and the Frederic Mares Museum are very beautiful and free to enter.

Boqueria Market is a riot of sounds, smells and sights. The fresh food on offer will make you salivate and if you are lucky you can dine out on a few free samples. If not, then there are plenty of bars and food stalls around the market to keep your stomach happy.

Placa Reial and Placa de Sant Jaume are good places to soak up the Spanish atmosphere with a coffee or a beer.

Get some exercise by walking down the busy La Rambla to the port or visit the Parc de la Ciutadella where you can marvel at the many sculptures, the huge mammoth and the cascading fountain.

Close to the park, the former Born Market is now a cultural centre with exhibitions (some free). Recently they have uncovered the ancient city beneath the foundations and it can be viewed without paying. There is also a very nice café / bar if you need refreshment and a bookshop to nourish the mind.

Many people visit Barcelona for the art and, while it is expensive to enter many of the wonderful museums and houses, it is free to gaze at the exteriors. There is a good value Art pass and some places are free to visit between 6pm and 9pm on Sundays.

Lunch: Avoid the expensive restaurants and cafes on La Rambla and in PLaca Reial and take a few steps into the side streets for a better value meal. I ate at La Crema Canela, at the entrance to Placa Reial. 3 courses, bread and a drink for only €10.45. Good value meal and speedy service but cold plates and small portions.

 

Venice on a Budget: Top Ten Tips

I managed to visit Venice for 3 days (4 nights) spending only €140, including accommodation, transport, museum visits and lunch. Here are my top tips for visiting Venice on a tight budget.

1. Visit out of season – Avoid the summer months when the crowds and mosquitoes descend on the city and when the weather can be unbearably hot. But remember that during the winter the weather can be unpredictable and flooding may occur. Also, cruise ships visit Venice on a regular basis all year round, when I visited in October there were 6 huge liners docked at the cruise terminal, plus the large Star Clipper sailing vessel and another river cruise boat. The number of tourists from these ships can severely increase the foot traffic in the city.
2. Stay on the mainland – If you want to stay in Venice itself then you have to pay the price. Also, Venice is a car-free city so you will have to pay to transport you luggage across town or be prepared to drag your suitcases through the narrow streets and up and down the numerous bridges which cross the canals. For motorhomes there are not many options. The parking area at Tronchetto is extortionate with a view of the multi-storey car park or the oil refineries; Camping Fusina is expensive and the vaporetto to the centre is not included in the daily travel pass, but it does offer views of the lagoon, when not blocked by cruise ships or freighters; Punta Sabbioni involves a 60 km drive to get there and then a 30 minute vaporetto journey to the centre; Mainland campsites tend to be close to the motorways or under the airport flight path. I chose to stay at Camping Serenissima (€18 per night) on the Brenta Canal with a 30 min bus journey into town for €3 or included in the daily travel pass.
3. Walk – The best way to see Venice is on foot, winding your way around the maze of alleyways and crossing tiny bridges with views along the canal network. The main destinations are well signed (San Marco, Rialto, Academia, P. Roma, Ferrovia and Vaporetto) and the churches and campos act as good reference points.
4. Visit the Islands in 1 day – A 24 hour travel pass costs €20 and so visiting all the islands for one day is not only cost effective but also gets you out of the city and away from the crowds. Plan your route carefully and remember that it takes about 40 mins to reach the outlying islands of Torcello and Burano.
5. Pick up a free events guide – Each month a bi-lingual booklet of events in Venice is published and available at the tourist information offices. It also contains useful information about all the museums and a timetable for the vaporettos.
6. Buy a Museum Pass – for the cost of only €24 you can visit the Doge’s Palace and 10 other varied and interesting Civic Museums in Venice. This includes the Museo Correr, Archaeological Museum, Biblioteca Marciana, Ca Rezzonico, Ca Pesaro, Palazzo Mocenigo, Museum of Natural History, Carlo Goldoni’s House, Glass Museum (Murano), Lace Museum (Burano) and is valid for 6 months. The individual entry costs for these museums totals €80.
7. Use museum and vaporetto toilets – Public toilets in Venice cost €1.50 so make the most of your Museum and Travel Passes by using the toilets on offer at the Museums and on the vaporettos.
8. Take a packed lunch and don’t sit down for a coffee – A good way to save money is to picnic in the various small parks around the city (e.g. Giardinetti Reali – between the Museo Correr and the San Marco Vaporetto stop; Ca Rezzonico Garden). Be aware that prices advertised in restaurants and cafes are for counter service only and that if you sit down for a drink you will be charged extra.
9. Visit churches early or just before a service – 16 of the main churches charge an entrance fee (€3 each or a combined ticket for €12) but if you visit early or just before a service you can gain entry for free. However, you should still be respectful and refrain from taking photos and disturbing local people who are there to pray.
10. Gondola Rides – if you really must ride in a gondola then take a short hop across the Grand Canal in a traghetto for €2. There are several places where you can use this service to get from one side to the other. A 30 minute tourist trip in a gondola will cost €80 but it can seat 6 people.

And finally – Avoid taking a backpack as you will be asked to check it at the cloakroom for every museum and also the Basilica.

A note about Acqua Alta – Venice is prone to flooding during winter at high tide and although duckboards are often put out to help you get from A to B it is advisable to take precautions or you may end up having to buy some expensive wellington boots from an enterprising local. Pack two black bin bags and some string so you have some cheap and easy protective legwear or sit out the high tide in one of the museums.

Girona for Free

After 24 hours of rain, I expect the city of Girona to be drowning, but the river which flows through the city is calm and the clouds have dissipated to leave clear blue skies.

There are many museums in Girona and the main ones offer a discount scheme so that after visiting the first one, the others are half price. But I only have one day and I don’t want to spend it all inside museums. So, I limit myself to just two.

I start with the Girona History Museum in the hope that it will offer me some good background information. It is spread over 4 floors of a former Capuchin monastery and a self-guided route takes me from the first Roman settlement, through medieval times, the Napoleonic War and the Spanish Civil War. There’s an interesting section about music and dance, as well as the Capuchin cemetery were the deceased friars were left to desiccate.

Just down the road, on the site of a Jewish Synagogue, is the Museum of Jewish History. In the late Middle Ages, up to 800 Jews lived in Girona. They worked in many trades, including goldsmiths, blacksmiths, tanners and tailors. Unfortunately, well before Hitler’s promotion of anti-Semitism, the Spanish Jews were persecuted by the Catholic Church. Those that did not agree to be baptised and renounce their Jewish faith were executed. The museum displays several stone tombs, including one which was rescued from a local garden, having been used as a fish pond.

Having a better understanding of the history of Girona, I wander down to the river and, from the pedestrian footbridge of Sant Augusti, I have a good view of the tall, terraced houses which overhang the water. I end up having lunch in one with a wonderful view of the Cathedral and Sant Feliu Church. I choose from the menu del dia and end up with a unusual assortment of dishes, not all good.

As the weather continues to bless me, I decide to walk the length of the city walls which stretch for over a kilometre around the eastern side of the city. They are very high and offer great views. I can clearly see the single towers of the Cathedral and Sant Feliu Church (in fact, they both look a bit lopsided, as if waiting to be completed) and beyond the red-tiled rooftops, the snow dusted peaks of the Garrotxa Volcanic Mountains.

For me, it seems criminal to charge entry to a holy place and it costs me €7 to visit Girona Cathedral. However, this also includes entry to Sant Feliu Church and a very good audio guide describing all the main features in some detail. Unfortunately, Charlemagne’s chair and silver canopy are hidden under scaffolding and cloth while they are being cleaned. The cloister is peaceful with each column capitol telling a biblical tale; Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, Noah and his ark. However, the best has been saved for last. Hidden behind a panel at the far end of the treasury is the Creation Tapestry, a masterpiece from the 11^th or 12^th century depicting scenes from Genesis.

Sant Feliu Church also has some lovely features, detailed by another audio guide. A large marble chapel is dedicated to St Narcissus, the patron saint of the city. Above the silver casket containing the remains of the saint, is a large statue of him and on a side wall is a large painting depicting the miracle of the flies, when Sant Feliu saved the town from attack by the French in 1285 and 1653. Behind the main altar of the church, embedded into the walls, are eight 4^th century Roman sarcophagi with detailed carvings of biblical stories and events.

Girona is a fantastic place to spend the day, especially if you are on a tight budget. Both the Museums I visited had free temporary exhibits which were equally as good as the main museums. Walking the walls is free, offers fantastic views of the city and some good exercise. Access to the Cathedral is free on Sunday and the Jewish Museum is free on the first Sunday of each month. There are many free car parks around Parc de la Devesa, if you don’t mind a short walk back into the city and, if you’re looking for somewhere nearby to spend the night in a motorhome, the then village of Quart has a nice, free Aire and the picturesque, medieval village of Besalu allows you to stay in their car parks for free.