Barcelona – Guided by Gaudi

It’s hard to visit Barcelona without bumping into Gaudi. Even the aire where I am staying is next to Gaudi’s Crypt, the unfinished church which was designed by Gaudi and built for the textile workers of Colonia Guell. But was he a genius or a madman? I decided to find out.

My plan was simple: to visit the exteriors of all the Gaudi designed sites in Barcelona using the metro and my own two feet. While researching, I came across a FREE Gaudi walking tour, operated by Runner Bean and decided that the additional information that could be provided by a knowledgeable local guide would be invaluable, so I immediately booked online.

It’s 10.45 and I easily find my guide in Placa Reial. He’s very tall, wearing a luminous green vest and holding an equally bright green umbrella. Marc greets everyone with a smile, while his colleague checks us off on her list and brands us with a small numbered sticker, red for the Gaudi tour and green for the visit to the Gothic Quarter. The Gaudi group are multinational, with representatives from Holland, Poland, France, Korea, Brazil, Canada and the USA.

We start our visit in Placa Reial where the ornate lampposts were the first, and only, public city commission which Gaudi received. While we admire them, Marc gives us some background information on the famous architect. He was born in Reus in 1852 and was a vegetarian for most of his life. A fierce Catalan nationalist, he preferred to speak only in Catalan and, as a young man, he had petitioned for the Monastery of Poblet to be restored and used as a commune for artists and writers.

 

 

A short hop across Las Ramblas and we find ourselves in front of one of Gaudi’s early masterpieces. Palau Guell was commissioned by the wealthy industrialist Eusebi Guell who became a long term patron of Gaudi, offering him projects with unlimited resources. The Palau was built in the 1890s but the family were kicked out during the Spanish Civil War and the building was later given to the city in 1945, being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the 1980’s. The exterior is very dark and austere, with only the colourful chimneys poking above the rooftop suggesting a more playful design.

We take to the metro for a two stop ride to Passeig de Gracia where several modernista facades await us. Gaudi’s Casa Batllo is the most striking, with its unusual balconies and rooftop tiles. There is some debate over the symbology. The balconies could be masks suggesting a happy carnival theme. However, more people subscribe to the story of George and the Dragon, with the tower representing the knight’s lance, the roof tiles are the dragon’s scales and the balconies are the skulls and bones of the victims. Gaudi was originally commissioned by Josep Batlló i Casanovas to renovate an existing building on the site. The house is now owned by the Bernat family who are known for the manufacture of Chupa Chups lollipops.

On the same block are two other modernista buildings: Casa Amatller and Casa Lleo Morera. It is possible to enter the ground floor of Casa Amatller to admire the beautiful staircase and stained glass ceiling without having to pay. There is also a chocolate shop and café inside which is very appropriate as the building is owned by a family of chocolatiers.

A short walk along the pavement, which features seafloor designs by Gaudi, and we find ourselves in front of Casa Mila, better known as La Pedrera. Built in 1906, Gaudi used a revolutionary technique of structural columns to enable a more open plan design for the interior apartments. The exterior is quite austere with its limestone façade and wrought iron balconies. Apparently, Mrs Mila, whose fortune was used to finance the construction, was not very happy with the design, along with many Barcelona locals. The rooftop features some unique chimney designs, including one which supposedly inspired George Lucas’ characterisation of Darth Vader. Marc told us of one long-term inhabitant called Carmen who has benefited from rent control, paying only €500 per month to stay in such an iconic building.

Another metro ride brings us to the final stop on our tour, La Sagrada Familia. Gaudi was a very religious man and the design and build of this church was his life’s passion. Construction began in 1882 and it is anticipated that it will not be completed until at least 2026. Founded by the donations of sinners (or tourists), it receives over 3 million visitors each year.

 

 

 

The nativity façade was completed by Gaudi before his death in 1926 when he was hit by a tram. Thought at first to be a tramp, due to his dishevelled appearance, there was some delay in getting him hospital treatment, and by the time his friends realised what had happened he was already dying. He was buried in the crypt of his beloved church and immortalised by the architect Josep Maria Subirachs as a character in the passion façade.

All this walking has made me hungry so, following Marc’s suggestion, I head towards the St Pau Hospital in search of a restaurant with a good menu del dia. Just before I reach the Hospital, I find Firo Tast with an intriguing menu for €14.95. Inside, it reveals a rather posh décor and when my food arrives it is beautifully presented. Feta salad with strawberry dressing, garlic lamb chops and a light panna cotta for dessert. They are not stingy with the wine either.

While enjoying my lunch I decided on a plan for the afternoon. Despite there being no queues for the Sagrada Familia I didn’t have a good enough camera to do it justice and besides, I’d just spent the entrance fee on lunch! Instead, I decided to take a quick look at the modernista hospital of St Pau and then take the metro to Parc Guell.

 

Marc had mentioned an escalator which assisted with the steep climb up to Parc Guell, but all I found was a never ending set of steps which brought me to the rear of the site. Although you now have to pay an entrance fee to visit the monumental area of Parc Guell, much of the surrounding park is still free and it’s possible to view quite a lot of Gaudi’s creations. Also, the views across the city are quite wonderful.

From the park, I walk back downhill to Place du Lesseps, in search of one of Gaudi’s earliest creations. Unfortunately, when I locate Casa Vicens, I discover it is shrouded with scaffolding and in a state of renovation. The house was commissioned by stockbroker Manuel Vicens i Montaner and built between 1883 and 1888. Despite the scaffolding, I could see many of the decorative details, such as the iron fan palm railings and the tiles of yellow marigolds.

The day is drawing to a close and, although I have managed to visit much of Gaudi’s work in Barcelona, I have still only just scratched the surface. However, it does give me a reason to return to the city and next time I’ll bring a better camera and perhaps venture inside some of the amazing houses and monuments of ‘God’s Architect’.

So, genius or madman? Probably a bit of both, but that’s usually the combination needed to become a great artist or architect.

 

Gaudi in Barcelona

Sagrada Familia 1882– [Completion estimated 2026–2028] – €15 (€22 with audioguide)

Casa Vicens  1883–1888 – closed for restoration

Güell Pavilions 1884–1887 – €4

Palau Güell 1885–1890  – €12

Teresian College 1888–1889 – still used as a school

Casa Calvet 1898–1900 – now houses a restaurant

Casa Figueres (Torre Bellesguard) 1900–1909  – €9 with audioguide or €16 guided tour

Park Güell 1900–1914 – €7

Casa Milà (La Pedrera) 1905–1907 – €20.50

Casa Batlló 1905–1907 – €22.50

Church of Colònia Güell – Santa Coloma de Cervelló (Barcelona) 1908–1914 – €9 with audioguide tour of village.

Sagrada Família Schools 1909 – used as offices for the Sagrada Familia construction.

Gaudi beyond Barcelona

El Capricho – Comillas (Cantabria) 1883–1885 – €5

Episcopal Palace of Astorga (León) 1883–1913

Casa Botines -León – occupied by Caja Espana Bank

Bodegas Güell – Garraf, Sitges 1895–1897  – now houses a restaurant

Artigas Gardens – La Pobla de Lillet 1905–1906 – €4.15

Other Modernista buildings in Barcelona

Casa Amatller – €15 (or 22.60 combined ticket with Casa Lleo I Morera)

Casa Lleo I Morera – €15 (or 22.60 combined ticket with Casa Amatller)

Hopital St Pau – €10 (or €16 guided visit)

 

Tarragona and the Via Augusta

Anyone who has driven south along  the Spanish coast from La Jonquera (the French border) to Cartagena has probably covered some stretches of the ancient Roman road Via Augusta,  and nowhere is it quite so obvious as Tarragona. Known as Tarraco in Roman times it was capital of the Hispania Citerior Province and the richest town on the coast.

Today, many important Roman remains are preserved in the city and I spent a day visiting them. Easily seen from my parking spot above Miracle Point is the large 2^nd century amphitheatre. Heavily pillaged for its building materials, recycled stone can be found all over the city. It is still a wonderful site and easily viewed from above without having to pay an entrance fee, but if you want more detailed information then the included audioguide is very useful.

Close by are remains of the 300m long Roman circus, built for horse and chariot races. Only a small portion can be seen as the rest is beneath modern apartments and the Archaeological Museum which displays many of the Roman finds from the city.

Placa del Forum is bustling with a local produce market, but amongst the stalls of colourful fruit and vegetables I find a small section of the Roman walls. A much larger section can be visited further west in the Archaeological Passage, a long, narrow garden which runs between the 3^rd century Roman walls and he more modern medieval and 18^th century fortifications. Opposite the entrance, in an inconspicuous modern building, is a very useful miniature reconstruction of 2^nd century Tarraco showing all the main Roman sites as they would have looked at that time.

My last stop in the city is the Roman Forum. Hidden behind the busy and noisy Central Market and unusually higher than the modern street level, the site includes the ruins of a judicial basilica and some splendid tall columns.

Tarraco would not have been such a successful city without the life force of water. Carried to the coast from the Francoli River 15kms away, a magnificent section of the aqueduct still stands just 4kms inland and close to the AP7 toll road. It is known as the Pont del Diable (Devil’s Bridge) and towers 27m above the valley. Amazingly, it is possible to walk across the 217m length. It looks pretty scary when you view it from below but it’s not so terrifying to walk across. I even felt safe enough to take a selfie!

North of Tarragona, on the N340, I find two more Roman monuments, marking the route of the Via Augusta. The first is the Tower of Scipios, a funerary monument, while the second sits proudly in the middle of the road. The Arc de Bera was built in honour of the Emperor Augustus and marks the city limits of Tarraco.

Novelda – A Perfect Place for a Picnic

Boxing Day is when you traditionally feast on cold meat and pickles, sat in front of the TV watching the latest action movie. However, in Spain the weather can often be too good to waste in front of the box. With this in mind, I packed up a feast of leftovers and took my mother and her two chihuahuas to Novelda and the Sanctuary of Santa Magdalena.

Arriving at the hillside site just 4km from the main town, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you had stumbled across a Gaudi masterpiece, for the church of Santa Magdalena looks like a mini Sagrada Familia. In fact it was designed and built by local engineer Jose Sala Sala between 1918 and 1946. The interior is quite restrained and calm compared to the modernist influenced exterior.

The church shares its perch with the ruins of a 12^th century Islamic fortress which boasts a restored triangular tower, unique in Europe. La Mola Castle, as the fortress is known, was passed down through Aragonese kings and nobles until the feudal estates were abolished in the early 19^th century. Now the castle is managed by the town and there is a handy tourist office on site, next to a laid back restaurant offering tapas and a very good value menu del dia for €10.45.

However, if like me you have bought your own food, there are plenty of picnic tables dotted around the area offering wonderful views along the Vinalopo river valley with lush vineyards and the high speed train track from Madrid to Alicante (25 kms from Novelda). There are also several walks around the hills to assist in burning off any excess calories you may have consumed.

 

A Catalan Christmas

When I think of Christmas, my mind turns to a big fat Santa, a school nativity play, roast turkey and mince pies, a decorated tree with colourful gifts underneath and the Queen’s speech at 3pm.

In Catalonia, they do things a little differently. As I passed through the region and stumbled upon Christmas fairs, I wondered why there were so many funny looking logs for sale. These cute little wooden beings with red hats and noses are called Tios. Children are supposed to feed them during advent and on Christmas Eve they then beat the Tio to make it defecate presents. Outside Barcelona Cathedral I saw lines of tiny children approaching a huge Tio to be rewarded with a lollipop from its backside!

Meanwhile, in most Spanish towns you will find a Belen, a nativity scene, and most Spanish families will have a smaller version in their homes. I have always enjoyed visiting a Belen and especially trying to spot the local influences and the more unusual characters.

Sometimes there is a woman falling down the stairs with a basket of eggs, and I have also seen a mother breastfeeding, but my favourite has to be the man, caught with his trousers round his ankles, having a shit. He’s known in Catalonia as the Caganer and is traditionally dressed as a Catalan peasant in a red hat, white shirt and black trousers. However, in the 21^st century he has now been replaced by famous politicians, celebrities and sports stars.

 

Catalonia – Origins and the Fight for Independence

Everywhere I go in Catalonia I see the regional flag, four red lines on a yellow background, a recently I read an interesting story about the origins of this flag, also known as the Senyera.

One of the oldest flags in Europe, it first appeared on the tomb of Ramon Berenger II, Count of Bracelona, who died in 1082. According to legend, the origin of the flag is even older, dating to the 9^th century and the siege of Barcelona. During the siege in 897, Count Wilfred I (also known as Wilfred the Hairy) was mortally wounded and King Charles the Bald dipped his hand into the Count’s wound and drew his four bloody fingers across Wilfred’s golden shield as a mark of gratitude. This may be a nice tale, but the fact is that the King had actually died 20 years before the siege.

The Kingdom of Catalonia was united with the Kingdom of Aragon in the 15^th century due to the marriage of Isabella of Castile and King Ferdinand II of Aragon. The combined nation was then taken over by the Spanish during the 1714 War of Succession. Catalonians have recently been attempting to regain Independence and unlike the Basques in the north, this has mostly been done in a peaceful way through demonstrations and political voting.

In 2013 the Catalan Way promoted independence through the creation of a human chain which was 240 km long. Then in November 2014 a referendum was held and the people overwhelmingly voted in favour of independence (well, those who actually voted did – it is estimated that 6 million of the people living in Catalonia are actually of immigrant or non-Catalan Spanish origin). On 27^th September 2015 the 11^th parliament of Catalonia was formed following elections but the Spanish government had other ideas and Prime Minister Mariano Rey threatened to suspend the political powers of the key Catalonian politicians if they proceeded with a legal battle for independence.

But in the hearts and minds of the Catalonian people, the fight continues.

 

Colonia Guell

I’m sure many people have heard of Parc Guell and Palau Guell in the city of Barcelona, created by the artist and architect Gaudi and paid for by his greatest patron, Count Eusebi Guell. However, few will know of Colonia Guell, situated west of the city in the town of Santa Coloma de Cervello.

The Guell Colony was established in 1890 by industrialist Eusebi Guell on his property outside Barcelona. He built his new textile factories with all the latest technology and provided houses close by for his workers. He was keen to improve their social conditions and so included a school, cultural centre, theatre and doctor’s house enlisting some of the best architects of the time.

Gaudi was commissioned to design a church and work started in 1908. It was an ambitious project incorporating many new architectural techniques and featuring many recycled materials. However, after only completing the lower nave, work ceased in 1916 leaving a small but usable church, more commonly known as Gaudi’s Crypt.

After civil war broke out in 1936, the factory became a collective. The Guell family later recovered the property but sold it in 1945 to another industrialist who continued to produce textiles until the factory closed in 1975.

Today, the workers colony is a peaceful but popular place. The original school and schoolmaster’s house is surrounded by fencing and in need of some repair but a new school up the hill is full of excited children. The locals sit outside cafes in the main square and the cultural centre is still used for community functions. The old cooperative building is now a tourist office and interpretation centre offering audio guided tours of the colony, while the old factory buildings are being renovated and a modern business park established within them.

Eusebi Guell’s original colony may have dispersed but his vision of a happy and healthy community and successful business venture still exists.

Barcelona on a Budget

Accommodation: There are many campsites and several secure parking areas for motorhomes in the Barcelona area but they are very expensive. A much cheaper option is to park in the free Aire at Colonia Guell. You could also visit Gaudi’s Crypt, the incomplete church which Gaudi designed for the village. (€9 including audio guide tour of the church and village).

Transport: Rather than catch the train from the closest station of Colonia Guell, walk 10 minutes down the road to Moli Nou which is within zone 1. A day ticket for the train and Barcelona metro system costs €7.60.

Sights: A lot of the main sights in the city are very expensive but it is possible to spend a day in the city without spending a lot of money whilst still seeing a lot of interest.

In the old town you can visit the Cathedral and its cloister for free. The interior is very impressive and the geese can be very entertaining.

The remains of the Roman Temple of Augustus are well hidden by the surrounding apartment blocks but, if the door is open, they are worth a glance.

The courtyards of the Casa L’Ardiaca and the Frederic Mares Museum are very beautiful and free to enter.

Boqueria Market is a riot of sounds, smells and sights. The fresh food on offer will make you salivate and if you are lucky you can dine out on a few free samples. If not, then there are plenty of bars and food stalls around the market to keep your stomach happy.

Placa Reial and Placa de Sant Jaume are good places to soak up the Spanish atmosphere with a coffee or a beer.

Get some exercise by walking down the busy La Rambla to the port or visit the Parc de la Ciutadella where you can marvel at the many sculptures, the huge mammoth and the cascading fountain.

Close to the park, the former Born Market is now a cultural centre with exhibitions (some free). Recently they have uncovered the ancient city beneath the foundations and it can be viewed without paying. There is also a very nice café / bar if you need refreshment and a bookshop to nourish the mind.

Many people visit Barcelona for the art and, while it is expensive to enter many of the wonderful museums and houses, it is free to gaze at the exteriors. There is a good value Art pass and some places are free to visit between 6pm and 9pm on Sundays.

Lunch: Avoid the expensive restaurants and cafes on La Rambla and in PLaca Reial and take a few steps into the side streets for a better value meal. I ate at La Crema Canela, at the entrance to Placa Reial. 3 courses, bread and a drink for only €10.45. Good value meal and speedy service but cold plates and small portions.

 

The Legend of Count Arnau

As the weather was good, I decided to take the scenic route from the South of France into Catalonia. The roads took me high up into the Pyrenees to the Col d’Ares where cowbells tinkled and cool winds blew across the mountain tops.

Descending into Catalonia, I came upon the interesting town of St Joan de les Abadesses, where a Christmas fair was taking place in the main square. I also discovered the beautiful abbey and the legend of Count Arnau.

It is believed that the story originated as a song in the 16th century, which relayed the conversation of the dead Count and his grieving widow. As often happens with oral stories, the tale changed and grew over the years incorporating other historical events and associating them with the Count.

Count Arnau was supposedly a wealthy landowner in Catalonia. One day, he decided to build a chapel in the mountains near his home. He promised the local labourers a heaped measure of grain per day in payment for their work, carving steps into the rock face to lead up to the chapel entrance. However, when it was time to pay, he only gave them a level measure and because of this fraud he was cursed by the village.

The Count was also a shameless philanderer who supposedly carved a tunnel through the mountain in order to reach the Abbey of St Joan in order to have an affair with the abbess, and possibly several of the nuns too. Because of the supposed licentiousness of the abbess and the nuns, the Abbey was closed down in 1017 and given over to monks instead, though it is more likely that this was due to religious reforms at the time rather than a secret tryst between the Count and the abbess.

After visiting the Abbey of St Joan and a wonderful exhibition about the tales of Count Arnau above the local tourist office, I decided to seek out his possible castle home and the church of Montgrony where the villagers carved the steps. They were in a remote area of the mountains, north of the village of Gombren. The church perched high up on the cliff and the castle in a valley down below. Although fenced off and locked up, I was able to gain access to the ruins of Mataplana Castle through a cow field. It was not a scary place, especially as there was a small chapel next to it, but I didn’t hang around for nightfall, as it is then that the Count is said to roam the hills on his black stallion, chased by howling hounds.

Roses – A Personal Tour of the Citadel

Roses is a town which appears to have been built for summer vacations. Hotels and apartments line the beachfront, interspersed with restaurants and bars, but the majority are closed and I’m about to discover that Roses’ origins were not related to sunbathing at all.

 

As I enter the town, a large wall forms on my left. This is one side of the monumental citadel, inhabited by Greeks, Romans, Medieval monks and 17^th century soldiers. It has also been systematically destroyed by many wars throughout the centuries and was almost turned into a housing development in the 20^th century. Luckily, it’s still here to educate us about the town’s long history and to provide something to do on a less than perfect beach day.

When I arrive, wrapped up in my fleece against the cold winter chill, I discover that in 45 minutes, and for only €1 more than the normal entry fee of €4, I can have a guided tour in English. While I wait, I visit the excellent museum which tells me about the history of the citadel, which was first settled by the Greeks and called Rhode, meaning rose, which is where the present day town gets its name. My tour guide is also called Roser (rose bush) and I’m the only client.

We make our way past a group of happy primary school children, who Roser has just been educating, and head over to an excavated area of the Greek settlement. From her shoulder bag, my enthusiastic guide extracts a piece of Greek pottery and explains how it helped to date the site. I’m amazed that I’m allowed to handle a piece of ceramic that is more than 2000 years old. However, the silver coins that we also discuss are reproduction and probably not silver at all.

Next to the Greek settlement is the Roman one. At one point this was the main port, though we are now some way from the sea. On slightly higher ground, a large church represents the site of the medieval village, part of which has also been excavated and I can clearly see the cobbled streets and walls of dwellings. The church has been partially restored. The multi-coloured stones, some recycled from the earlier settlements, are very interesting, as is the story of the destruction of the main apse. It’s easy to imagine that it was destroyed during one of the many wars and sieges of the citadel, but Roser tells me that it occurred in the 1930s due to a dispute between two local brothers which resulted in a fire.

Part of the tour takes us along the high, thick walls of the 17^th century citadel. Some areas were destroyed by Napoleon’s army, while others were destroyed by the town council and building planners for a proposed housing development in the 1950’s. Luckily, the archaeologists persisted in examining the site until they found something of historic significance that would stop the housing plans and, in the end, common sense prevailed over financial gain. The citadel and the ghosts of its inhabitants over the many centuries have been preserved for future generation to appreciate. Though, I suspect that most visitors to Roses would appreciate a cold beer or an ice cream much more.

 

Girona for Free

After 24 hours of rain, I expect the city of Girona to be drowning, but the river which flows through the city is calm and the clouds have dissipated to leave clear blue skies.

There are many museums in Girona and the main ones offer a discount scheme so that after visiting the first one, the others are half price. But I only have one day and I don’t want to spend it all inside museums. So, I limit myself to just two.

I start with the Girona History Museum in the hope that it will offer me some good background information. It is spread over 4 floors of a former Capuchin monastery and a self-guided route takes me from the first Roman settlement, through medieval times, the Napoleonic War and the Spanish Civil War. There’s an interesting section about music and dance, as well as the Capuchin cemetery were the deceased friars were left to desiccate.

Just down the road, on the site of a Jewish Synagogue, is the Museum of Jewish History. In the late Middle Ages, up to 800 Jews lived in Girona. They worked in many trades, including goldsmiths, blacksmiths, tanners and tailors. Unfortunately, well before Hitler’s promotion of anti-Semitism, the Spanish Jews were persecuted by the Catholic Church. Those that did not agree to be baptised and renounce their Jewish faith were executed. The museum displays several stone tombs, including one which was rescued from a local garden, having been used as a fish pond.

Having a better understanding of the history of Girona, I wander down to the river and, from the pedestrian footbridge of Sant Augusti, I have a good view of the tall, terraced houses which overhang the water. I end up having lunch in one with a wonderful view of the Cathedral and Sant Feliu Church. I choose from the menu del dia and end up with a unusual assortment of dishes, not all good.

As the weather continues to bless me, I decide to walk the length of the city walls which stretch for over a kilometre around the eastern side of the city. They are very high and offer great views. I can clearly see the single towers of the Cathedral and Sant Feliu Church (in fact, they both look a bit lopsided, as if waiting to be completed) and beyond the red-tiled rooftops, the snow dusted peaks of the Garrotxa Volcanic Mountains.

For me, it seems criminal to charge entry to a holy place and it costs me €7 to visit Girona Cathedral. However, this also includes entry to Sant Feliu Church and a very good audio guide describing all the main features in some detail. Unfortunately, Charlemagne’s chair and silver canopy are hidden under scaffolding and cloth while they are being cleaned. The cloister is peaceful with each column capitol telling a biblical tale; Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, Noah and his ark. However, the best has been saved for last. Hidden behind a panel at the far end of the treasury is the Creation Tapestry, a masterpiece from the 11^th or 12^th century depicting scenes from Genesis.

Sant Feliu Church also has some lovely features, detailed by another audio guide. A large marble chapel is dedicated to St Narcissus, the patron saint of the city. Above the silver casket containing the remains of the saint, is a large statue of him and on a side wall is a large painting depicting the miracle of the flies, when Sant Feliu saved the town from attack by the French in 1285 and 1653. Behind the main altar of the church, embedded into the walls, are eight 4^th century Roman sarcophagi with detailed carvings of biblical stories and events.

Girona is a fantastic place to spend the day, especially if you are on a tight budget. Both the Museums I visited had free temporary exhibits which were equally as good as the main museums. Walking the walls is free, offers fantastic views of the city and some good exercise. Access to the Cathedral is free on Sunday and the Jewish Museum is free on the first Sunday of each month. There are many free car parks around Parc de la Devesa, if you don’t mind a short walk back into the city and, if you’re looking for somewhere nearby to spend the night in a motorhome, the then village of Quart has a nice, free Aire and the picturesque, medieval village of Besalu allows you to stay in their car parks for free.